Monday 3rd August Dave charged the batteries using the Honda generator and we cleared customs at the dock. Then we collected mail and had a reunion with all our yachting friends. Culminating in happy hour at the Paradise Hotel which opens its facilities to visiting yachts.

We spent 2 weeks in harbour in Neiafu renewing old friendships and repairing the boat. Then we left in company with Ice Dream and our Swiss friends on Taramea for Port Morrel 8 miles south. It was a brisk sail and we took some lovely photos of Ice Dream and them of us. En route we stopped at a large cave and Dave and I took it in turns to go in the dinghy to explore the cave. It was too deep to anchor. We arrived at Port Morrel and anchored in 5 metres of turquoise water. We went ashore and had a barbeque inviting all the yachts to join us. After 2 days we returned to Neiafu and got permission from the harbour master to visit other anchorages. Dave checked the batteries again and found all of them have dead cells so we have to buy new ones. We will buy one here for the engine and the others in Fiji which is duty free. We were invited to join a large yacht full of friends to visit a submarine cave. Dave and Sarah dived to it, but I'm not too good under the water. You had to dive 6ft and swim 15ft under the water to reach the cave. It was really strange inside as the difference in air pressure makes mist appear and disappear with the wave action.

Next day our friends on Ice Dream and Taramea headed for Hunga, lagoon one of the furthest islands. We arranged to meet them next day and went to the market and bought a basket of 13 breadfruits for the barbeques we planned to have. We set off early in the morning so that we would arrive at the pass into Hunga just before high tide. There is a one fathom patch in the entrance so we must be very careful. The charts for this area are not too reliable. As we neared the lagoon we passed the entrance twice to get our bearings, Sarah went up the mast and I was on the bow. Dave was shouting out the depth from the echo sounder, we had 5 metres then I saw the shallows ahead and Dave called "How is the water" It was too late to stop so I called "It looks shallow but I think it is okay" crossing my fingers and closing my eyes, we were soon in the deep water of the lagoon, Dave recalled us to the cockpit and told us that we always had at least 3 metres under us according to the echo sounder, so the chart was right after all.

Ice Dream and Taramea were waiting for us they had arrived the day before and found the best anchorage. We had a barbeque on the beach with the breadfruit we had bought in the market and it was decided that one of the boats should take everyone out next day to explore the Mariners submarine cave and some fantastic coral that you can snorkel over on the outer reef. The water was too deep to anchor so a yacht had to circle to let everyone swim. After the barbeque we drew lots to see which would be the host boat and we lost! We had only come through the pass 2 hours before and now we had to go back and return through it the next day.

As we were the host yacht the other 2 boats prepared all the food. We set off at 8.30next morning with Christof up the mast reef spotting. I must admit it was much easier the second time through. It was a lovely day and we sailed to the cave first, and then slowly cruised whilst we had lunch finishing up at coral gardens. It was beautiful, fish of all colours swam around us and the colour of the coral was unbelievable. It was a wonderful day and we safely entered the lagoon having become quite expert at navigating the pass. The next day Dave and I went for a walk around the island and met some children, who led us to their parents house and we were given a lunch of Kassava (tapioca), and fish from their oomu (ground oven).and papaya for dessert followed by drinking coconuts.

When we returned to Blue Spurr Christof came over and offered to teach us to dive with his scuba tanks. It was wonderful. The following day we returned to Neiafu but our Sat Nav had not arrived so we reprovisioned with fresh produce and meat and set off in company with our friends for another deserted island.The beach was lovely soft white sand and turquoise water. Six boats came to the beach barbeque and we had a great time. The next day 3 boats left and we decided to go to a nearby 40 which was too expensive so we walked around the village eagerly eying all the piglets and trying to strike a bargain, however the chief pig keeper was away in Neiafu so we had to return to the boat empty handed. When we returned to Neiafu the next day our Sat Nav had arrived, Dave fitted it immediately and it worked we decided to prepare to leave for Fiji.

We bought a new battery and some scrimshaw and wood carvings, and filled up with fresh produce and lifted the anchor. We sailed in company with Ice Dream, to the southernmost of the Vau Vau group where we spent 2 days swimming and snorkeling. Dave went out with his spear gun and speared a 6ft octopus, but it was too strong for him to pull off the rocks so he had to call Christof to help. Finally they prized it free and we took a photo of Dave holding it outstretched, it was bigger than his arm span and tasted delicious.

Thursday 10th September Reluctantly we weighed anchor and said goodbye to Tonga. Ice Dream set sail at he same time, but was soon just a spot on the horizon. The wind is only about 12knots but we are moving slowly. We have set a course south of the Lau group in Fiji to avoid as many of this group of islands as possible. The tides are very unpredictable in this area and quite a few yachts have foundered in this group of islands.

Sunday l3th September We crossed the 180 meridian today 3 years to the day that we left Hull. We are half way round now. The winds are still light and we are averaging 3 and a half knots.

Monday 14th September We sighted the lights of Suva at 22.00hrs so we hove to until daylight. We entered the pass just after dawn and went to clear customs. This proves easier than we expected, and afterwards we visited the local market and bought lots of fresh food before anchoring at the Royal Suva Yacht club. Lots of our friends are here including Ice Dream, and we spent a good night in the yacht club bar. The next week was spent buying batteries, repairing sails etc. One day a Dutch boat came in and anchored across the bay, Dirk Tober who was the captain rowed over to renew our friendship. We last saw him in Lisbon Portugal 3 years previously, when we bought an auto pilot from him. Since then Dirk had crossed the Atlantic visited the USA, returned to Holland to refit his boat, and recrossed the Atlantic and crossed the Pacific to catch up with us, it just shows how slow we are moving.

Dave and I went shopping in Suva to buy a tape player, suddenly we heard an explosion, and lots of people started running down the street, smoke and broken glass were everywhere, and a lorry load of soldiers arrived and began fifing their automatic machine guns in the air. We headed for a quieter part of town and heard on the radio that a bomb had been set off in an Indian owned store and there had been a lot of looting.

On Friday 25th September we collected a rental car from the local Hertz office and set off to explore Fiji, halfway through the afternoon it was announced that there had been a coup and there was now a curfew. No-one could drive after 8.00pm. We returned to the boat before dark and cursed our luck, we had rented the car for 3 days and can't drive after dark so won't be able to drive all around the island. Next day there were road blocks around Suva and on bridges leading into towns but we didn't get any bother. We stayed in a hotel on the north of the island for the night before returning to Blue Spurr on Sunday evening. All in all the curfew and coup didn't affect us except the bar closed at 6.00pm and the public transport stopped running.

The Fijians apologized every time we went shopping and the Indians were all reducing prices as they were planning to leave the country. In the 2 months that we were there the currency devalued twice by 15% each time so it was a good cheap place for visitors. However the lure of bright lights palled as it is wont to do and we decided to explore the Astrolabe reef, a large reef enclosing several small islands 50 miles south of Suva. We had to get special permission from the ministry of Foreign affairs, but this didn't prove any problem as long as we promised to abide by local custom, and take presents of Kava to the local island chiefs and ask permission before we fished or snorkeled.

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