Wednesday 7th October We went through the pass at Suva at 6.00am with a gentle breeze astern. We only averaged about 4 and a half knots and arrived at the pass into the Astrolabe reef at 15.30hrs. It was not marked at all so we had to eyeball our way in. We sailed 2 miles across the lagoon to Dravuni, the island home of chief Tangi who owned the 6 smallest islands inside the reef. We dropped anchor off the village, the only boat there and went ashore taking some of the Kava root we had bought in Suva. On shore we were met by the young children of the village and one of the village ladies, who guided us to the chief's hut. The chief was sat cross-legged on the ground at the end of the hut. We removed our shoes and sat down were someone indicated. A young boy acted as interpreter. We offered the Kava to the chief and asked permission to anchor near his islands and fish and snorkel. He took the kava root in his hands and chanted over them. Then he looked at us and clapped his hands several times. "It is finished" said Manua, the young boy, "you have permission, and you may go now". It was getting dark so we returned to the boat.

The next day the young men of the village were spear fishing on the coral near Blue Spurr and Dave swam over with his spear gun to join them. At the end of the morning they gave us 2 fish from their catch, and we invited them on board for a cup of tea. They asked Dave to fish with them tomorrow. Today Dave caught 2 fish and in the afternoon the village young men brought us some cassava, papaya and coconuts. We went ashore with our tape player after dark and played reggae music on the beach for the villagers. On our third day Dave again went fishing and in the evening was invited to a Kava meeting in the village hall. It lasted until 2.00am. The chief sat in front of the Kava bowl and the other men sat around in a small circle. A young warrior served Kava in turn in half coconut shells. He knelt with bent head, and offered the Kava and whilst it was being drunk he clapped his hands, the drinker then handed back the empty shell and clapped 3 times. Dave was very welcome and drank quite a lot of Kava, with no ill effects. Originally Kava was prepared by young virgins chewing the roots and spitting into the Kava bowl, now it is prepared by the youngest warriors, about 15 years old pounding the root in a hollow log.

Sunday 11th October Bill, one of the warriors brought his outboard over today for Dave to have a look at. A diaphragm was broken and Dave quickly made a replacement using an old inner tube that we carry for just such situations. Every time we went ashore we were invited to eat at someone's house. Next time Dave went to a Kava meeting Sarah and I went along. The village women were at the back of the hall making a new mat for the floor. The hall was about 50ft by 20ft and the mat was being made in one piece by weaving dried pandanus. They showed Sarah and me how to do it and we helped for a while. The village was run like a commune, and once a week there was a meeting to decide who did what job. The next day our warrior friends, 6 of them, were detailed to catch fish for the 20 families of the island. We offered to take them on Blue Spurr to the nearest uninhabited island, as the fishing would be better. It was only 3 miles and we set off at 8.00hrs Sarah and I snorkeled whilst Dave and the men went fishing. They returned with lots of fish and 2 lobsters which we barbequed on the beach for lunch. At 17.00hrs we returned to the village with a good catch. That evening at the Kava meeting the chief spokesman approached Dave with a request. The children of the village all go to school on Ono, an island 10 miles south, and next weekend was a school festival. The village didn't have enough boats for everyone, so they asked Dave if we could take 6 of the warriors and their gear to the festival. We were delighted; we were going to a real "MEKE" Fijian festival as guests of honour

Six warriors came on board at noon next day complete with spears and grass skirts. On the route we put out the fishing line and there was much excitement when we caught a 15lb king mackerel. We cut some for ourselves and gave the rest to the warriors to take up to the school. When we landed on shore the next morning we were met by "our" villagers who introduced us to families from other islands, then we were seated near the school officials as guests of honour. The dancing began, first the warriors and older women who danced sitting down moving their heads and hands in an age oldd dance symbolizing birds and water, and fishing. Then our young warrior friends did their dance, shouting, stamping their feet, their brown faces daubed with black and their arms and legs fringed with green fern. During the dance the women from the tribe poured talcum powder over their heads as a token of appreciation. It was a wonderful weekend. A real glimpse of the old Fijian way. We dropped our friends off at their village and then spent a couple of days on our own at an uninhabited island. Before returning to Dravuni to say goodbye. The last night at Dravuni we were invited to a special barbeque by all the villagers. They killed 2 chickens for us and cooked them in an underground oven. Then we were escorted to the Kava meeting where we were given a small pandanus mat as a going away gift. The4 chief asked Dave to sit on his right side in a place of honour. We stayed until 2.00am drinking Kava and talking. We were taking 3 of the warriors back to Suva with us to visit relatives and planned to leave at 6,00am. Five thirty saw the arrival of Bill Manua and Jerry. They guided us through a pass in the north of the reef used by local boats and it saved at least an hour sailing. We had a brisk following wind and sped along to Suva arriving at noon. On the way we had caught a 30lb Dorado and the warriors were excited as we fought to get it on board. We cut off what we needed and some for our friends on Ice Dream and gave them the rest including the head, which they consider a delicacy.

We spent the next 2 weeks preparing Blue Spurr for the trip to New Zealand. We bought 2 new batteries and filled the gas bottles. We collected the spinnaker, which had been repaired by a sail maker and checked the rigging and sails. Finally on 7th November we sailed out of the pass for the last time. We have a good force 5 from the east and are making 5 knots.

Sunday 8th November Dave woke me at dawn as he had caught a big Dorado and couldn't get it on board on his own. We are still sailing happily in a brisk easterly.

Monday 9th November We didn't fish today as we have lots of Dorado left. The wind is lighter ad the seas are calmer; our speed has dropped to 4 knots.

Tuesday 10th November Another lovely day. We are heading SW to a point 500 miles north of North Cape, as the prevailing winds are supposed to be SW so we can run easily down the coast to the Bay of Islands.

Wednesday 11th November Still force 4 from the east and wonderful seas. We are really enjoying this sail.

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