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Struer, a town in its own right, is still referred to as
Hosterbro-Struer in pilot books and on charts. Holsterbro is a
totally separate town about 10 miles south but Struer has a
superior position with regard to road, rail and water
communications. It was established in 1917 to serve the needs of
industrial Hosterbro and so lacks any old world charm. However it
is proved to be ideal for preparing and provisioning the boat.
After raising the mast, our first tasks were to visit a bank to
obtain currency, stock up on fuel and food and purchase the
necessary Danish charts of the area.
We had used the British
Admiralty chart No 2325 for planning. This covers the area
adequately in fathoms, but the Danish charts No 108 and 109 are
metric, have more detail and contain small panels showing major
harbours, difficult channels and bridges. Brackenbury's Baltic
Southwest Pilot also contains useful sketches of the harbours at
Livo and Fur but since it was published there have been a number
of changes, making a new edition desirable. This book described
only 14 out of the 27 harbours which were listed in the Danish
tourist office leaflet. We decided to make sketches of those
harbours not shown in the pilot book or as plans on the charts.
Dust from the grain silo near the commercial dock persuaded us to
move Tiger Lily to the pleasanter surroundings of the yachting
marina where there are showers and a restaurant. After driving
for 2 days, having located the harbour and launched the boat, it
was time to reward ourselves with a meal in the 'Marina Club'
restaurant. Although slightly expensive by English standards, the
meal was superb and it made an ideal start of the sailing phase
of the holiday. Our sailing plan was to circumnavigate the large
island of Mors, visit the small islands of Livo, Fur, Jegindo and
Veno and have one day off visiting the famous flower gardens near
Nykobing.
Sailing out on the first leg of a foreign cruise is always
exhilarating for the trailer sailor - venturing out into unknown
waters. We left Struer on a strong easterly wind which
necessitated a passage through the narrow channel separating Veno
from the mainland, past the bustling car ferry and up the west
coast of the island. To port we could see the vast wind turbine
farm near the Oddesund bridge. On passing the two pretty harbours
of Veno and Jegindo we promised ourselves that we would visit
them on our return journey. Near the southwest corner of Mors is
the island of Agero, part of which is a bird sanctuary and a
paradise for ornithologists.
Our destination was Doverodde, a tiny jetty harbour in the narrow
route west of the island of Mors. Doverodde is easily identified
from a distance by a large, apparently disused, grain silo.
Although the harbour is exposed to easterly winds, the rather
substantial floating jetty provided sheltered continental style
box moorings. In Denmark local yachtsmen leave a sign in their
box to indicate whether it is in use. A green 'FRI til' sign
means that it is available for visitors and a red 'OPTAGET' sign
shows that the owner will be returning to it. It is bad form to
enter a box displaying the occupied sign.
Our technique for box
moorings is to prepare, on each side of the boat, a large bowline
in the end of a long piece of floating rope. One person motors
the boat slowly forward and the other slips the bowlines over the
posts. The two ropes are allowed to run freely over the pushpit
whilst motoring slowly forward. Just before the bow touches the
jetty one person jumps off whilst the other checks the forward
motion with a stern rope. The bow is secured to the jetty and the
stern ropes tightened up. It is important to use floating rope,
as motoring with non-floating rope disappearing over the side can
be disastrous.
In Doverodde we were unable to find the shop mentioned in the
pilot book, but the restaurant seemed to be very active. Although
giving the impression of a 'sleepy' harbour, there were recent
signs of improvements, particularly for dinghy sailors.
The bridge at Vilsund on the NW corner of Mors has one opening
span. Local yachts wishing to pass through normally fly the 'N'
flag from the spreaders - we sounded 'N' on the foghorn. Ten
minutes later the bridge opened and we headed for the town of
Thisted 4 miles away. The harbour entrance is difficult to make
out against the town, but the huge white grain silo just east of
the entrance is a very useful landmark. Once inside the harbour
we found that the only available box was for a vessel twice Tiger
Lily's size, however, no one seemed to mind and several other
large boxes were occupied by small boats. Our 12 meter rope was
only just long enough for that particular box.
Thisted is an ancient town and the local museum houses Denmark's
largest collection of Bronze Age artifacts. A few kilometres
southwest of the town lie a system of ramparts dating back to 900
AD. The marina is a few hundred yards from a modern pedestrian
shopping precinct.
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