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Port Le Douhet is only some 4.5 miles down the coast and this made it
an ideal objective for a short morning sail, - short because it was
necessary to leave St Denis and enter Le Douhet on the same highwater.
The concrete sill at Le Douhet dries within an hour of low water and
once inside it is important to leave the yellow post to starboard so
as to avoid an underwater obstruction. Close to the harbour a line of
restaurants provide a good variety of food.
Le Douhet, like St Denis, is a modern yacht marina, but a few miles
further south lies the older harbour of Boyardville. This port lies on
a tidal river, La Perrotine, and caters for a number of fishing boats.
The harbour itself is locked, the gates opening and closing
automatically about 2 hours either side of high water. We used
Boyardville for a lunch stop and to buy provisions but not wishing to
get trapped by the lock gate, we left to sail via Fort Boyard to the
Ile d'Aix. The fort, built by Napoleon and resembling one of the
Solent forts, was used as a prison but today is a tourist attraction.
The wind was north westerly making the moorings on the southeast end
of the Ile d'Aix just tenable for an overnight stop. We picked a
mooring buoy fairly close inshore which would allow us to dry out at
low water.
Facing the entrance to the River Charante, the mooring was ideal to
begin the 17 mile trip upriver to Rochefort. The river can carry a
stream of 4 knots in places and so we choose to ride the flood tide
right up to the lock gate, which only opens at exactly high water. The
river carries commercial traffic and is therefore well furnished with
a succession of beacons and leading lines. The lifting bridge just
above Soubise has now been replaced by a high road bridge. Just
outside the lock at Rochefort there is a waiting pontoon for early
arrivals. As the lock would not be opened again until the following
afternoon, we spent a full day at Rochefort, exploring the town.
During the Napoleonic period it was the centre of shipbuilding for the
French Navy and far enough upriver to be safe from marauding English
fleets. The 'Corderie Royal' just alongside the river manufactured
most of the rope for the French fleet but now houses a nautical
museum.
Leaving the river is more of a navigational exercise - boats can only
exit the lock at high water and by the time they reach the mouth, the
ebb stream has set in strongly. This can create a heavy sea at the bar
particularly when a north westerly wind blows directly into the river
mouth. As this was the case on the day we left, we chose to pick up a
mooring buoy near the mouth and wait for the high water slack,
occurring at 5am in the morning. Although still dark at this time, the
two outermost pairs of leading lights were visible making navigation
easy.
Back at La Rochelle, it was time to check the car and trailer and then
take the Tiger Lily into the old harbour in the centre of the city.
The narrow approach channel and the 2 imposing towers make the harbour
impregnable and it is easy to see why it was used as a submarine base
during the second world war. There are a number of visitors berths in
the old harbour, but being right in the middle of town, it could be
noisy compared to the Port des Minimes.
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